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Lavender in Perfume

Fascination with Perfume | Using Lavender in Perfume

Book Tip Book

Perfume

by Patrick Suskind

 

"During his tour, Grenouille spotted no less then seven soapworks, a dozen master perfumers and glovers, countless small distilleries, pomade studios and spice shops, and finally some seven wholesalers in scents.
These were in fact merchants who completely controlled the wholesale supply of scent. One would hardly know it by their houses. The façades to the street looked modestly middle-class. But what was stored behind them, in warehouses and in gigantic cellars, in kegs of oil in stacks of finest lavender soaps, in demijohns of floral colognes, wines, alcohols, in bales of scented leather, in sacks and chests and crates stuffed with spices – Grenouille smelled out every detail through the thickest walls – these were riches beyond those of princes."

Excerpt from Perfume by Patrick Suskind.
Since its publication in 1985, this novel has entranced readers worldwide with its strange mix of suspense, history, and post-modern poetic imagery.

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Fascination with Perfume

The history of perfumery is steeped in secrecy, intrigue, myth, mystery, international trade routes crossing paths, political conspiracies, ignited love affairs, disenchanted lovers, and fierce competition between rival enemies.

The history of perfumery is anything but dull. Anthropological evidence speculates that as far back as 7000 B.C. fatty oils were thought to have been combined with fragrant plants to create aromatic ointments.

Egyptian, Greek, and Roman history is saturated with stories of unguents used for the process of mummification, mystic rituals using incense, bathing ceremonies using scented oils as well as with stories of seduction using aromatic mixtures. 

The purpose of many explorers’ journeys such as Marco Polo, Christopher Columbus, or Vasco de Gama was in search of new routes for the exchange of new ‘scents’. The discoveries made by the explorers in the Americas revealed that fragrant treasures were abundant and of great importance to the civilizations of Peru, the Native Americans, the Mayans and the Aztecs.

European kings and queens, often equipped with a royal perfumer, greatly influence the development of fragrance. For example, 16th century Henry VIII and his daughter Elizabeth I of England without a doubt, contributed greatly to bring about the renaissance of fragrant substances in all forms. Italian’s Caterina de Medici’s (1519-1589) marriage to France’s Prince Henri II helped the cities of Paris, Montpellier and Grasse to take lead in the European fragrance industry.
 
Today, the world of perfumery remains shrouded with secrecy. For instance, visits to French perfumeries or to the city of Grasse – the world capital of perfumery, make one realize that not even a life-time is enough to inhale the profound knowledge hidden behind the closed laboratory doors. It is an art form.

Visiting the city of Cologne, Germany is yet another example. In 1732, when the Italian Giovanni Maria Farina took over his uncle’s business in Cologne, he produced aqua admirabilis, a lively blend of neroli, bergamot, lavender and rosemary in rectified grape spirit – which became famous under its new name Eau de Cologne 4711. This prescription was secretly passed on from one generation to the next since 1508 and remains, until today, a recognized brand product on the shelves of perfume stores. Moreover, as a daily reminder, magazine advertisements and city billboards are a modern reminder of the profound history, mystery and fascination with fragrance.

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Using Lavender in Perfume

For a perfumer lavender oil and lavandin oil have a fresh, clean fragrance – it is therefore of no surprise that lavender is a key tool in the perfumers palette and used extensively. The main use for lavender oil is by far in the bulk production of perfumes for a multitude of products – industrial cleaners, laundry detergents, soaps, air fresheners, candles, cat-litter, dish washer detergent, shampoos, bath and shower products, lotions, cosmetics, and of course fine perfumes.

Due to the price difference between lavender oil versus lavandin oil (lavender being the more expensive), lavandin tends to be used more in the cheaper, cleaning product fragrances while lavender is used in the fine product fragrances.

Sadly, due to the fact that lavender oil is not the cheapest of materials, it is often substituted in lower-priced perfumes either with its relations - lavandin or spike lavender, or with artificial oils made from synthetic aroma chemicals by perfumers.

In fine fragrances and perfumes, it will surprise many that lavender is used much more in masculine fragrances than women’s. Apart from the evident lavender fragrance, lavender is used very little in women’s perfume, but a huge number of men’s fragrances do use lavender. The lavender does not actually have to be that noticeable in the fragrance, but it plays a subtle part in creating the fresh, clean impression.

In fact, one of the most successful categories of men’s fragrances is built on lavender – the Fougère category. Fougère are predominantly masculine scents. These fragrances have a fresh, herbal, lavender character with mossy and Chypre like base notes. The Fougère theme began in the 1880’s with Fougère Royal, and its influence continues through hundreds of famous fragrances such as Old Spice (1935) by Shulton, Stetson (1981) by Stetson Coty, Brut (1964), Paco Rabanne (1973), Drakkar Noir (1982) and Cool Water (1985).

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