Carrier oils - also referred to as base oils or vegetable oils, are used primarily to dilute essential oils before applying to the skin as essential oils are - in most cases - too powerful to use neat.
While there are other carriers such as creams that can be used to dilute essential oils, carrier oils are the most commonly used medium due to their versatility - they ‘carry’ the essential oil onto the skin.
However, they can also be used for much more than just for diluting essential oils. The natural skin softening, moisturising and nourishing qualities within the carrier oils can soften wrinkles, increase elasticity and help balance an uneven complexion.
Different carrier oils offer different properties and the choice of carrier oil can depend on the cosmetic or therapeutic benefit being sought. Examples of carrier oils are sweet almond, apricot kernel, grapeseed, avocado, peanut, olive, pecan, macadamia nut, sesame, evening primrose, and wheat germ.
Carrier oils are largely derived from nuts and seeds, although there are a few exceptions to this generalisation. For example, coconut oil is extracted by a special process from the white flesh which is known as 'copra', and jojoba oil is extracted from a leathery-leaved shrub and is actually a liquid wax rather than an oil.
Unlike essential oils that evaporate and have a concentrated aroma, carrier oils do not evaporate or impart their aroma as strongly as essential oils. Carrier oils provide the necessary lubrication to allow the hands to move freely over the skin and not 'drag' while massaging, yet at the same time, they carry the essential oils into the body. They should be light and non-sticky for this penetration to take place effectively, and preferably should have very little or no odour.
Carrier oils offer a wealth of health-giving benefits. They play a far more significant role in cosmetic and beauty products, aromatherapy and homeopathy than many people realize. For example, they contain vitamins, minerals and essential fatty acids, and many of them soften and improve the condition of the skin. Some of them are also highly effective in treating irritated, sensitive conditions such as eczema and psoriasis as well as helping to reduce wrinkles and scar tissue.
The oil obtained from nuts and seeds is usually extracted by one of two different methods. The first process is known as 'cold pressing'. Due to its higher cost, it is restricted to a relatively small scale production.
The nuts or seeds are placed in a horizontal press with a rotating screw known as an 'expeller' and the oil is literally squeezed out. Despite the processing name, a certain amount of heat is produced during the process due to friction, but this rarely exceeds 70° or 80° C and causes little damage to the oil. The oil is then filtered and sold as a finished product.
Large scale industrial production uses a method called 'hot extraction' and uses a similar process, but tremendous heat is applied during the process to increase the yield of oil, and temperatures used can reach up to 200° C. Unfortunately, this process destroys the important vitamins and fatty acids within the oil.
The waste product from both methods of extraction, known as 'cake' is often re-processed using solvents to extract even more oil. This oil is re-heated again, refined, deodorised and the colour is bleached out. Finally, artificial colour, preservatives and vitamins are added back.
Most oils bought in the grocery store, for example are not cold-pressed. The fact that they have been heated means that they have less of a therapeutic benefit. All the vitamins, minerals and fatty acids have been destroyed during the extraction process, thus the oils are coined unsuitable for high-quality cosmetic products, homeopathy and aromatherapy.
Further methods of extraction may include infusion - that is, by way of infusing the plant material in a vegetable oil until it absorbs all of the healing properties of the volatile oil. Chamomile, Calendula (Marigold) and St John's Wart are example of plants that may be infused in a vegetable oil to obtain a 'healing' carrier oil.
Some seeds require the use of solvents or need to be refined in order to get the oil 'pressed'. Grapeseed oil is one such example. This method is disputed as remnants of the solvents may remain in the final product. Cold pressing is always the preferred method as the process retains the beneficial properties of the plant within the oil.
It is also important to note that since mineral oil is not a natural product, it is not used in homeopathy, therapeutic massage, or aromatherapy and is generally avoided in the production of natural high-end cosmetic products.
The larger molecules of mineral oil cannot easily penetrate the skin and it really acts as a barrier leaving the skin feeling very greasy. This action therefore works to actually restrict the absorption of essential oils into the skin, rather than helping it.
The rule of thumb in good quality beauty products, homeopathy and aromatherapy is to avoid mineral oils. Vegetable oils possess therapeutic qualities that are highly beneficial even without the addition of essential oils. They have a higher chance of getting absorbed into the skin and, in turn, provide the desired results.
One final note: essential oils do not go rancid. Carrier oils, however, can go rancid. When buying carrier oils it is important to buy oils which are natural and unadulterated. Exceptions include buying carrier oils that have natural vitamin E added. Vitamin E acts as a natural preservative.
There is a wide range of carrier oils to choose from each with their own individual properties and suitability towards different treatments. Choosing a carrier oil is similar to that of choosing an essential oil - you choose one with the properties that you need for your particular needs.
Lavender, like other essential oils, should always be mixed with a light vegetable oil carrier or base such as sweet almond oil, jojoba or grapeseed – although sunflower or soya oil would also suffice. Jojoba oil, being a liquid wax, does not go rancid – otherwise a little wheatgerm oil should be added to the blend to prolong its shelf life.
